A "Blue Mind" passage from T. Jefferson Parker's 1999 thriller / crime novel The Blue Hour (p 124):
"Then the roaring cylinder broke over him and the sky was replaced by rifling water and he was deep inside for a second or two, still happily gliding along on the palm of his hand until the wave finally caught him and drove him down toward the sand.
A moment later he found himself in the soft whitewater, being deposited on the shore.
He sat there for a moment in the sand like an infant while the water receded around him.
Some of the people on the beach were clapping.
He took off his fins and stood.
He smiled back at the crowd—what a strange feeling to smile—and knew he could do it, he could beat this thing inside him with a little luck, a little applause, a little nod from God on high.
His heart was pounding strong and his lung and a third were full of good salt air."